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Persona Pentathlon
Kingdom A&S March 2009
By Lady Tirzah MacCrudden

Persona: 15c., A cook of a large kitchen in manor house of northern Italy.


Studio Arts:
Calligraphy:
• Recipes of the kitchen


Costuming & Needle Arts: Costume: AD 1451-1600
Costume: AD 14-51-1600
• Red linen cote and white linen underdress


Domestic Arts & Sciences:
Cooking:
• Supper: A platter containing rice, eggplant and a piglet.

• Dessert: A dish with zabaglione, figs and tartlets of elderflower.

Brewing & Vinting:
• Beverage: Raspberry-Wine


Bibliography:

“Cuoco Napoletano / The Neapolitan Recipe Collection”
ISBN: 0-472-10972-3
English Translation by Terence Scully

“The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened”
ISBN: 978-1-4346-0054-7
Edited by Anne MacDonell

“Curye on Inglysch”
ISBN: 978-0197224090
B.L. MS. Harley 1605 Pt. 3, f. 107v

Studio Arts:
Calligraphy:
• Recipes of the kitchen

Jacket illustration from “The Neapolitan Recipe Collection” Folio IV of Bushler, 19
Inner illustration from “Curye on Inglysch” B.L. MS. Harley 1605 Pt. 3, f. 107v


Costuming & Needle Arts: Costume: AD 1451-1600
Costume: AD 14-51-1600
• Red linen cote and white linen underdress

The layers of this dress would have been wool for the outer layer, and linen for the underdress. I chose to do two layers of linen because the climate we have here is less suitable for the wool overdress. I used linen thread on both dresses. The button holes were done by hand, but I chose to use a shortcut for the eyelets on the white underdress. The eyelets were constructed by first using grommets and then covering them up with thread.

Domestic Arts & Sciences:
Cooking:
Supper: A platter containing rice, eggplant and a piglet.


Cuoco Napoletano/ pg. 45, 177 #8
Riso alla Italiana / Rice in the Italian Style

Piglia una pignata he mettice borodo grasso he magro he fa bullire; he poi piglia lo riso bene nettato he piu volte lavato cum aqua tepida, he metello dentro he fa bulirre menando cum lo cghiaro alcuuna volt ache non se apichi alla pignata; poi, quando serra cotro, piglia ova he caso gratato, sbatuto ogni cos insieme, cum uno pocho di pipere; poi fa le scutelle.

Put fat and lean broth into a pot and boil it; then get cleaned rice that has been washed several times in warm water, put it in and boil it, giving it a couple of turns with a spoon so that it does not stick to the pot; when it is cooked, get eggs and grated cheese, and beat everything together, along with a little pepper; set it out in bowls.

2 cups rice
4 cups beef broth
3 eggs
2/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
Pinch of pepper

Clean rice in cold water then cook it in beef broth for 20 min., beat eggs, cheese and pepper together; add mix to rice after it has cooked; stir then serve.



Cuoco Napoletano/ pg 50, 180 #50
Marignani / Eggplants

Piglia li marignani he falli bene netare he bene mondare sutilmente; poi pone a focho uno pocho de aqua he falli dare uno bullore; che siano tagliati in quarti hepone in quella aqua uno pocho de sale, he non li lassare bullire piu che doi Pater Noster; poi cavali for a sopra uno tagliero he falli sugare; poi infarinali he frigeli; et como li harai friti, scola for a quasi tuto lo olio; poi piglia una spica de agloi he pistala bene cum uno quarto de quisti marignani; he poi habi uno poco de rigano de quello se mette sopra le alice, he pistalo cum lo aglio cum pocho de pane, pipero, saffrano he sale; poi destempera tute queste cose insieme cum agresto he cum uno pocho de aceto; poi getta ogni cosa insiema in la padella a frigere un pochetto; poi meteli in piatti he manda a tavola cum specie fine.

Get eggplants and wash and peel them well, then set a little water on the fire and bring them to a boil; cut them into quarters and add a little salt to the water; do not let them boil more then two Our Father’s; then tack them out onto a cutting board and let them drain; coat them in flour and fry them, drain off almost all of the oil; get a clove of garlic, grind it up with a quarter-piece of the eggplants; then get a little oregano, of the sort that is put on anchovies, grind it up with the garlic and a little bread, pepper, saffron and salt, then distemper all of this together with verjuice and a little vinegar and throw everything into the pan to fry a little, then dish it out and serve it with mild spices.

3-4 eggplants
1 cup flower
1 clove garlic
Sprig of fresh oregano
2 Tbl to 1/3 cup bread crumbs (panco)
Vinegar
Saffron, pepper, salt
Mild spice (nutmeg, pepper, allspice)

Quarter pieces of eggplant boil for no more than 2 “Our Fathers” (5 min is what I found to be best). Drain eggplant and then dust it in flower and pan fry on all sides. Mince garlic and one piece of eggplant and add the chopped oregano, bread crumbs, saffron, pepper, salt and vinegar. Mix all together and then sauté with the pan fried pieces of eggplant. Dust with mild spice mix and then serve.



Cuoco Napoletano / pg 73,197 #73
La Sancta Porcheta Arosto reversata / The Holy Piglet, Roasted Inside-Out

Piglia una porcheta he spelala che sia bene biancha he bene nettata cum aqua calda; da poi fedela per la scina he cacia for a l’interiora, he lavala bene dentro per pgni lato; he riversala como se fa cum le tenghe; poi, per sua impitura, piglia una spicha de aglio minuzato he lo fitgato dela porcheta bene sabatuto, he petrosillo, maiorana un quatrino, he pipero uno baiocho, he alter bone specie, he caso gratato he gratato he quarto ova he zafrano, prune he uva passa, he miscola cum lardo ogni cosa insieme; he mette queste cose in la porcheta, he chepetuto ci ne sia; poi cucella bene cusi reversa,he ponela in spito ben ligata cum bastoni, ho vero mettela sopra una graticula; he falla ben cocere; he poi, mettendola supra la graticula ho arosto in spito, falli questa salmora: piglia aceto bono, pipero pisto, assai zaffrano he sale he cum questa bagnaralla cum rosomarino: in questo modo ser bona.
Get a suckling pig and remove its hair so it can be blanched well and cleaned well with hot water; split it open right along its spine and eviscerate it and wash out everywhere inside, and turn it inside- out as is done with tench; then, for its stuffing, get a clove of garlic, ground, and the piglet’s liver, well beaten, and parsley, a quatrino’s worth of marjoram, abaiocho’s worth of pepper, and other good spices, grated cheese, four eggs, saffron, plums and rains, and mix everything together with lard; put this everywhere inside the piglet; then sew it up well, turned inside-out that way, mount it on a spit fastened carefully with skewers, of else set it on a grill; cook it well; then, whether it is grilled or roasted on a spit, make the following basting sauce: get good vinegar, ground pepper, a good lot of saffron, and salt, and with this you baste it using a sprig of rosemary. Done this way it is good.

1 suckling piglet
Stuffing: Basting sauce:
2-3 cloves Garlic Balsamic Vinegar
½ lb Liver Pepper
¼ cup Parsley Saffron
¼ tsp. Marjoram Salt
¼ tsp. Pepper Rosemary sprig
½ cup Parmesan cheese
2 tsp. Spice Spice:
4 eggs Ginger
Pinch of Saffron Mace
¼ cup Plums Cardamom
¼ cup Currants Cinnamon
2-4 Tbs. Lard Nutmeg


The recipe starts by eviscerating the piglet down the back. I was not able to eviscerate the piglet myself so it is split down the belly; this is the way they are sold now. Wash the piglet, turn it inside out and stuff. Stuffing: mince well together garlic & pig liver, add mixture of parsley, marjoram, parmesan, eggs, plums, currents, pepper and spices with lard. After having read this and other similar recipes I decided to first brown the skin/outer side of the piglet before stuffing and finishing the roasting. The browning adds an extra depth of flavor to the dish which improves the overall outcome. Once the piglet is stuffed roast it for 15-20 min per pound at a temperature of approximately 300F. The piglet should be basted every 15 minuets with sauce. Sauce: vinegar, pepper, salt, saffron basted with a sprig of rosemary (used like a brush).

Dessert: A dish with zabaglione, figs and tartlets of elderflower.

Cuoco Napoletano/ pg 73,197 #135
Torta de Fiori de Sambuco / Elderflower tort

Habi fiore de sambuco quando sono ben mature, he scrola che cada tuto el fiore da quilli ramiciolo, he questo fiore incorporalo cum la compositione dita de sopra in al Torta Biancha,ma questa compisitione de fiore vole esser piu stetta he piu spesaa; he falla cocere como he ditto de le alter torte non discordanti del zucaro he aqua rosata.

Get elderflowers when they have fully bloomed, shake the branch-ends so that all the blossom petals fall off and mix these into the White Torte mixture described above, though this flower mix should be stiffer and thicker; cook it as I directed for the other tortes, not forgetting the sugar and rosewater.

To Make White Torte: pg.195 #125
Get ten or twelve eggs, as you prefer, beat them thoroughly; cut up small a pound and a half of new cheese, then grinned it with half a pound of fine sugar, a further half ounce of peeled ginger, half a pound of lard or butter, and a small foglets of milk, then mix the milk, egg, cheese, sugar, ginger and butter thoroughly together – and note that, o make it whiter, there should be fifteen egg whites; then make thin pastry on the bottom of the pan, put this mixture on it, and cook it slowly over a moderate fire; when it is almost done, give it a little color on top with hotter fire; when it looks done, take it out and put rosewater and sugar on top , and serve it. (Note that, when it is done, the top of this pie should be sprinkled with an egg yolk beaten with saffron, and then put on plenty of well ground sugar.)

1-2 oz. elderflower petals
6 Eggs / 4-whites, two Yolks
4 oz. mascarpone
¾ cup milk
2 oz. super fine sugar
3 oz. sugar
¼ tsp. ginger
1 Tbs. butter
1 tsp. rosewater
4-6 strands saffron
Pastry shells/ flower, butter, egg, sugar, salt, nutmeg

Make pastry crust and bake for 10 min in a 325 oven. Cream one egg yolk and sugar together and then add cheese, milk, ginger and butter. Whip egg whites to soft peaks and fold into other mixture. Put all into the pre-baked tart shell and put into oven for 15 min. Beat one egg yolk with saffron. Take out tart from the oven and pour saffron mix over tart, then put back in oven for 5-7 min. Remove tart from oven and sprinkle with sugar and rosewater.

Cuoco Napoletano/ pg 80,202 #175
Frilellede Fiche Piene / Stuffed Fig Fritters

Piglia amandole he pignoli, he pists molto bene – dico, che ogni cosa sia bancha – he pista insieme due bone fiche he un uva passa; poi taglia un pococ de petrosillo ben tito, he habi bone specie he miscola insieme; he se questa material fusse troppo dura, pone insieme un poco de aqua rosada; poi piglia fiche belle he grossw he falli un buco dove sta el fiore suo he impele de questa material; poi falle frigere in bono olio, adsio dico.

Get almonds and pinenut and grind them up – I say everything must be white - and grind in two good figs and a few raisins; cut up a little well chopped parsley and mix in good spices; if this mixture is too thick, add in a little rosewater; then get fine big figs, make a hole in them where their flower is, fill them with the mixture and fry them in good oil – slowly, I say.


¼ cup Almonds
¼ Pinnuts
12-18 Figs
2 Tbls. Rains
Sprig Parsley
Enough to moisten Rosewater
Pepper, cinnamon, clove, anis, ginger, mace
Oil

Grind up pine nuts and almonds and add one minced fig, some minced raisins, a chiffonade of parsley and spices. Add enough rosewater to moisten. Stuff the mixture into the remaining figs, and then slowly sauté.
Cuoco Napoletano/ pg 88, 209 #220
Zabaglone / Zabaglione

Per fare quarto taze de Zabaglone, piglia .xii. rossi de ova fresca, ter onze de zucaro he meza onza de canella bona he uno bucale de vino bono dolce, he fallo cocere Tanto che sia preso como uno brodeto. Et poi levalo fora he ponello in uno grandopiatello davante alli Compagnone. Et se vorai, gli potrai ponere unopezo de butiro fresco.

For four cups of Zabaglione get 12 fresh eggs yolks, three ounces of sugar, half an ounce of good cinnamon and a beaker of good sweet wine, cook this until it is as thick as a broth; then take it out and set it on a plate in front of the boys. And if you like you can add a bit of fresh butter.

4 egg yolks
2 Tbs. Sugar
¼ cup marsala wine
Pinch cinnamon
½ tsp. butter

Wisk together eggs, sugar and wine. Once it has been whisked put over a double boiler using low heat and whisk until thickened to desired consistency. At the end add butter.

I did not add much cinnamon to the custard for the simple reason that I don’t like the flavor with that much cinnamon added. And I have more sugar so it would be sweeter for a more modern pallet.


Brewing & venting:
• Beverage: Currant Wine

“The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened”
Page 140 / Rasbery-Wine

Take four gallons of Deal wine, put it into an earthen jugg; put to it four gallons of Rasberries; let them stand so infusing seven days; then press t out gently; Then infuse as many more Rasberries seven days longer, and so three times if you please; put to it as much fine Sugar as you will make it pleasant; Put it into a Runlet close stopped, let it stand till it is fine; and then draw it into bottles, and keep it till it be fine.

2 cups wine
2 cups Raspberries
2 tsp. supper fine sugar

I could fine no information on “Deal wine” so I tried two different kinds of wine one red and one white. I used frozen raspberries. I exchanged the raspberries every 7 days for 4 weeks at which point I added the sugar, and then bottled. I preferred the ---- wine it was more flavorful.

Ah-ha news on “Deal” wine although spelled differently it is pronounced the same; “Deihl” wine, which is a German rislling, a sweet white wine.

Comments

( 4 comments — Leave a comment )
bunnyjadwiga
Mar. 10th, 2009 07:00 pm (UTC)
Nicely written; looks good from the documentation. One question: why pre-bake the pie crust?
orlacarey
Mar. 10th, 2009 09:20 pm (UTC)
I called and asked - she pre-baked the pie crust because she was afraid that the crust would get soggy if she didn't.

orlacarey
Mar. 11th, 2009 08:19 pm (UTC)
More from LLT - By the way she's intending on entering the tarts (with revised documentation) at Mudthaw

One question: why pre-bake the pie crust?
In "Platina" his second white tort says to place the pastry in the
hearth and when it is half done spread cake on top

What do you think the effect of the
different split (down the belly as opposed to the back) might have on the cooking process, anatomically/fat-meat wise?


I do not believe it would have changed the cooking at all but it
would change the visual the head would have been right side up instead of inverted. Although you may have gotten some crackling from the belly which I did not get.

bunnyjadwiga
Mar. 12th, 2009 02:24 am (UTC)
Thanks. That's what I was wondering about.
( 4 comments — Leave a comment )

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